Prada turns to India to remake Kolhapuri sandals after cultural appropriation row

Italian luxury house Prada is returning to India’s traditional Kolhapuri sandals with a new limited-edition collection, this time shifting production to India and working directly with local artisans after facing criticism over earlier designs.

The move comes less than a year after Prada faced sharp criticism for presenting similar designs at a Milan fashion show without acknowledging their cultural roots. The backlash forced the brand into an uncomfortable global conversation on ownership of traditional craft and the ethics of high-fashion “inspiration”.

Backlash over Milan show triggered rethink

The controversy began when Prada showcased sandals resembling the centuries-old Kolhapuri chappals — handmade leather footwear traditionally crafted in Maharashtra and Karnataka. The designs quickly drew criticism from Indian artisans, heritage advocates and political leaders, who accused the brand of cultural appropriation and failing to credit the craft’s origins.

Kolhapuri sandals are not just a fashion item in India but a long-standing artisanal product, passed down through generations of craftsmen. For many, the issue was not imitation alone, but the absence of acknowledgement at a global platform.

Faced with the backlash, Prada later acknowledged that its design drew from ancient Indian styles and began discussions with artisan groups and institutions in India to explore collaboration instead of confrontation.

From controversy to collaboration

In a marked shift from the earlier episode, Prada has now announced plans to produce 2,000 pairs of Kolhapuri-inspired sandals in India itself. The production will take place in Maharashtra and Karnataka, in partnership with two state-backed organisations.

The sandals will be sold globally through around 40 selected Prada stores and online channels, with each pair priced at about 750 euros (around $881), according to the company’s website.

Training programme for artisans

Alongside production, Prada has also launched a three-year training programme aimed at artisans from eight districts historically associated with Kolhapuri footwear-making.

The programme, set to begin next month, will be delivered in structured six-month modules by two leading Indian design institutes. It is expected to reach around 180 artisans over its duration.

Selected artisans will also be given opportunities to visit the Prada Group Academy in Italy, where they will be exposed to modern design techniques and production systems used in luxury manufacturing.

Tanu Kashyap, director general at the National Institute of Fashion Technology, which is involved in the programme, said the initiative reflects a broader shift in how Indian crafts are viewed globally. “It is time that Indian traditional crafts take their rightful place on the world stage,” she said.